Fukuoka Yatai 福岡の屋台- 司 (Tsukasa)
Yatai (屋台), literally meaning “Person Stand”, seat from 10 to 15 people and are 180+ licensed and operating strong in three main areas throughout Fukuoka six (and sometimes seven) days a week. Boasting by far the largest amount of portable restaurants in Japan, somehow this Kyushu outpost has maintained deep roots with the centuries old Japanese tradition of mobile food stands. Though originally a product of 19th century Edo, as well as modern day festivals, Tokyo long ago stopped issuing permits due to sheer foot traffic on sidewalks (where most Yatai setup). It’s just too crowded. Same with Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and Hiroshima (all located along the Inland sea). So what is it about Fukuoka and its citizenry that just won’t let the Yatai fade into the country’s glorious past alongside Samurai, Geisha and Natto (oh, yeah, that’s still around, isn’t it…)?
Tourism, for one. During the Spring and Summer weekend evenings the Yatai lining the banks of Nakasu’s Naka-gawa bulge with out-of-towners hungry and thirsty for some of the best food this town has to offer. Japanese from Sapporo, Kagoshima, Yokohama and all points in between wait in line for the famous Tonkotsu Ramen. Among them Korean and Chinese tourists check out the food, but the majority of voices speak in a mix of boisterous Japanese dialects, Hakata-ben being the most easily discernable. This is aided in most part by beer, Umeshu, but especially the copious amounts of Shochu our island is famous for.
My personal opinion is fish. Due to its location on along the Genkai, the relatively little traveled sea between Korea and Japan, chief among Fukuoka’s specialties is the local catch of Aji (Mackeral), Kisu (Silver Whiting), Fugu (Blowfish) and Mentaiko (Spicy Pollack Roe). Get the Shiso-Mentaiko Tempura (Tempura Mentaiko wrapped in Shisho leaves), the catch of the day (Kisu, Suzuki, Fugu) grilled or done in an amazingly light tempura served with Ten-tsu (Dashi, Mirin, Shoyu & grated Daikon), the Aspari-yaki (grilled Asparagus) and depending on the season, tender big Shiitake mushrooms, either grilled or Tempura, and your night is set.
Try Tsukasa (pictured) on the Nakagawa in Nakasu for the best tempura of your life. Otherwise, get in line at any of the numerous Yatai spread throughout Tenjin, Hakata and Nagahama areas. You won’t regret it.
As seen in HESO Magazine #7: Home & Homelessness
