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French Food Roadtrip 5: Center of France!

French Food Roadtrip 5: Center of France!

Going from the deep south of France all the way to Belgium is no joke. Maybe for people living in the USA or in Canada driving 1300km is of no consequence and they would do it to visit Aunt Gudrun over the weekend. Not so in Europe where the same distance can have you cross five countries, probably more if you target properly and aim at maximizing border-crossing (some people do it as a sport almost!) Our first day of travelling had us reach la Lozère almost right in the middle of France, in Le Massif Central, a volcanic mountain range providing pretty amazing landscape but also pretty rough living conditions therefore quite devoid of human presence. It is a part of the French hippie myth to quit one’s job, buy a farm there and go make goat cheese. Some did.

Marinated bell pepper with anchovies @ Le Caylar (photo by Rowena Koh)

Marinated bell pepper with anchovies @ Le Caylar (photo by Rowena Koh)


Our next pit stop was for the evening but we had to stop for lunch, it happened whenever we started to feel a bit hungry and when a little town showed a name that I fancied, Le Caylar won the prize that day. It was a tiny village with stone built houses and a central plaza with big old trees (I do not remember but most probably a walnut tree or a lime tree…) The inn was run by a family and the food was as delicious as the place was cosy. Beware though not to start making a fuss because the cheese smells too harsh or because this or that as the owner is prompt to kick you out if you disturb “the ambiance.” It nearly happened. Not because of us: we were too busy enjoying sausage and lentils, bell pepper marinated with anchovies, local pâté de campagne and the über-ubiquitous plateau de fromages

Then we drove some more…

French Food Roadtrip 5: Center of France!

Indeed we had to reach Chirac (Lozère) where I had made a booking in a “ferme auberge.” The concept is quite simple: some people have a nice big farm, some still farm or breed (animals, hu?), and have a couple of rooms for rent. One is welcome there and takes meals at the hosts’ table. You never know exactly what you’ll eat except that it will be local (sometimes as local as directly from the farm) and that you may meet some rather interesting characters (hosts or guests.) I thought the place was in Chirac, a little village I always wanted to explore just because it has the same name as a certain French Président de la République, it is always funny to send your family or friends a text message saying you’re having a beer at Chirac’s (the joke works better in French, yes, but you get the idea). After about 15min driving on smaller and smaller roads I had to come to terms with that, we would not be exactly in Chirac, rather somewhere remote higher in the hills, surrounded by forests (mostly pines, firs and oaks if you want to know…) and sheep.

The farm was a nice old building (or buildings, rather) and the hosts pretty colourful and very warm. It would be tedious to describe the whole meal so I’ll let the pictures speak…

  • Apéritif of white wine mixed with Aubrac tea syrup,
  • a starter of meat pie (with some dry sausage on the side as the lady of the house feared we would be still hungry! Insanity…),
  • main dish of paleron and truffade (paleron is beef, somewhere in the shoulder as far as they told me… truffade is a sort of tartiflette, ah ah, now you know better don’t you? So, potatoes, crême fraiche, onions maybe and local cheese melted on top, cooked in a big pan… the best part is the crusty bits at the bottom, I had to fight with the host to get some, it is well sought after…),
  • of course plateau de fromages
  • and a dessert of homemade currant pie.

We could barely move to get to our room. The night went by very fast, sheltered in a room with meter-wide walls and very little noise and other distraction. In the morning, after breakfast, I went to try and see the sheep and the donkey. They have donkeys because they are good guards against wolves!

So yes, I wanted to see the famous loups du Gévaudan in Marvejols (Lozère) and, even if it is not really part of a food roadtrip to describe such things I have to say I was pretty impressed by these animals. If one wants to spend more time there one can rent a house close by the park in Sainte Lucie and try to sleep with the sound of them howling in the night. We spent about 2 hours in the park where about 5 different species of wolves are kept. Do not get me started on the French politics of conservation of wild animals such as wolves and bears and all that. We pretty much killed them all and every try to put some animals back in the wilderness is met with, let’s say resistance. Sigh.

However, we still had land to cover to reach our destination of the night: La Pointezie, a hamlet lost in the middle of nowhere, to meet with an old friend of mine. Lunch was uneventful in Saint-Flour (Cantal) with some nice trippoux and aligot (some sort of a large sausage made out of pig guts served with mashed potatoes mixed with melted local cheese, a delicacy from the area of course… some say that a real aligot has to be served with a fork and a pair of scissors to cut the melted cheese strings attaching the dish to the plate) and a sample of local beers. As a side note I was pleasantly surprised to see (and taste) more and more micro brews (bières artisanales) in France, and not only in the North close by Belgium and Germany but also in the South and Middle of the country…

We reached La Pointézie (do not try to find it on a map, useless…) just in time to go pick some green and yellow beans for the meal of the evening… My friend Laurent and his wife and daughter live with chickens and rabbits, some vagrant cats and Eole the dog. They help local farmers with their cows from time to time, they have a real bread wood oven in a small shed somewhere in the garden, the garden has everything you need: salad, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, beans, zucchini, eggplant, you name it… In short they have all the good stuff around. Granted, the place is fairly remote and during winter they could be isolated because of snow and bad weather but that is the price to pay to have fresh eggs, fresh milk directly from the cow (the farmer drops by on his way to milk them to get some containers and put said-containers full by the mail box on his way back… I recall some Xmas ago during my last visit giving hay to these very cows (or maybe their cousins.) That evening we had delicious oeufs cocotte (eggs cooked in a bain-marie in the oven with milk and cheese in little glass dishes) with potato and bean salad, whole wheat bread and, guess what, a nice piece of cheese… My friend even opened a bottle of Cahors 2002! He doesn’t drink wine himself but this is part of the French way of welcoming people, long time friends and possibly lost travelers. Well, not everywhere but hey, you choose your friends, right?

Read the Entire French Food Roadtrip

After a couple of train rides we will arrive at our second stop: Txot’s Sidreria in Figueras, city of Salvator Dalí for the ones amongst you readership with a fancy for psychedelic painting. To be noted that this rather small Catalan town sports the world famous Dalí museum (yes, the one with the bathroom sculpted on the ceiling of some room, go figure…) However we were there to catch a car ride to the South of France but not before stopping for some new-school tapas and Basque Cider! Basque Country cider in Catalunya, you got to be kidding me!

After dragging ourselves out of the Cider-induced madhouse of Dali’s Figueres,we venture to the third stop on the French Food Roadtrip: a small house in the Pyrénées.

What could be better than that – A small house in the mountains? Oh yes, stop 4 on the French Food Roadtrip: Roussillon and the Sea.

Once you have a taste of the city, nothing but the best will do. This is where we take the French Food Roadtrip 6: to Lyon & Grenoble.

This is getting intense people & I think you can feel it. Now that we survived Lyon by protecting ourselves with some of the best local cuisine, wine and beer we venture to French food roadtrip – stop 7: le Buget and Montbéliard in le Jura.

What is Choucroute? Come with us and find out on the French Food Roadtrip – stop 8: la Maison de la Choucroute in Strasbourg.

And finally–though this is not the end–we must finish our Mostly French Food Roadtrip with the last stop 9: En passant par la Lorraine.

French Food Roadtrip 4 - Roussillon and the Sea

French Food Roadtrip 4 – Roussillon and the Sea

[by Rowena Koh]

To be welcomed into someone’s home in France is to be taken on a journey. After a long and arduous flight, this kind of journey is most welcome, as it is experienced not by getting on yet another bus or car or train, but by sharing stories – stories told through words, to be sure, but mostly, through food.

The De Graves led me on an expedition through personal histories consisting of flavours that ranged from the soft sweetness of muscat wines to the intense saltiness of brined anchovies, and tastes that brought me from the earth to the sea and back again.

French Food Roadtrip 4 – Roussillon and the Sea

French Food Roadtrip 4 - Roussillon and the Sea

Oysters from Leucate

This epic voyage took place in and around Fitou, a small town near the Mediterranean Sea, known for its endless number of vineyards and caves (it has its own appellation d’origine contrôlée, a French certification granted to certain regions that produce wines and other agricultural products) and neighbouring oyster farms.  The wines are mostly of the Carignan variety, which must constitute 40% of any blend that come from this region, and are blended with Grenache, Lladoner Pelut, Mourvèdre and Syrah. The variety of sweet muscat known as Rivesaltes, also come from around these parts. The velvety, rich liquid of literally every single bottle we tasted fell effortlessly, tenderly down my throat, telling their own stories of where they came from through their subtle aromas of fruitiness and woodiness. The only infuriating part of the whole experience is knowing that the most aged and expensive of these bottles cost less than the cheapest, most harshly acidic bottle found in a Canadian liquor store. Sigh.

For me, the smoothness of these wines was eclipsed by the silky softness of the oysters grown in the adjacent Étang de Leucate. The water here is rich in plankton and other elements that make it an ideal spot for erecting poles upon which are draped ropes of growing oysters. Like an old sailor hardened by the harshness of the sea, these creatures are rather severe looking initially, its rough surface not exactly inviting you in, but once you manage to open them up, they become their own pretty little iridescent dishes, happily presenting you with a luxurious morsel that upon consumption, immediately transports you to the middle of the sun-drenched Mediterranean, moving slowly, calmly, in time with the rhythm of the sea.

It is the homecooked meal, though, that transports us from the present to the past. We were treated to the Pomme de terres farcies, a comforting stuffed potato dish brought to Fitou from the north, where Mme De Grave spent her childhood, and Sauce tomates aux anchoives, a delicious, salty but surprising subtle, traditional Italian dish that our host recently learned to make as a way to reconnect with her Italian heritage. Like much homecooking, both dishes are simple, but take time, where choosing the freshest ingredients is as important as the time it takes for them to stew – long enough for them to mingle and merge, until their individually discordant flavours of salt, fat, acidity, and sweetness unify and relent to perfect harmony.

These homecooked meals are always created with local ingredients, of course, from the neighbouring sea, from nearby farms, from our neighbour’s backyards. This keeps us grounded in the present and helps us create new stories without ever losing sight of where we came from.

—-

Pomme de terres farcies (stuffed potatoes)
Ingredients

  • 6 potatoes
  • 2 tomatoes
  • about 250g chair à saucisse (a kind of seasoned ground pork sausage)
  • parsley, chopped
  • about ¼ cup water
  • salt
  • pepper
  • olive oil

Method

Prepare the filling by mixing the sausage, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Peel the potatoes and cut the tomatoes in half. Using a spoon, scoop out a chapeau on the side of each potato and remove the seeds from the inside of the tomatoes. Fill the holes with the meat mixture and replace the chapeau on the potatoes. Add a bit of oil to the bottom of a cast iron pot and arrange the stuffed potatoes and tomatoes on top. Add water and let cook on low heat until potatoes are tender, about an hour.

Sauce tomates aux anchois (anchovy tomato sauce)
Ingredients

  • 1 jar brined anchovies (about 12 anchovies)
  • 1 clove garlic
  • Sprig fresh parsley
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • water
  • pepper
  • oil

Method

Clean anchovies under running water until the salt is removed, but not entirely. Heat oil in a medium-sized saucepan. Add garlic, parsley and anchovies and briefly sauté. Add the tomato paste and water, and stir. Let simmer on low heat for at least two hours. Add pepper to taste. Serve with pasta. Pommes de terre et tomates farcies, ready to be eaten.

Read the Entire French Food Roadtrip

After a couple of train rides we will arrive at our second stop: Txot Sidreria in Figueras, city of Salvator Dalí for the ones amongst you readership with a fancy for psychedelic painting. To be noted that this rather small Catalan town sports the world famous Dalí museum (yes, the one with the bathroom sculpted on the ceiling of some room, go figure…) However we were there to catch a car ride to the South of France but not before stopping for some new-school tapas and Basque Cider! Basque Country cider in Catalunya, you got to be kidding me!

After dragging ourselves out of the Cider-induced madhouse of Dali’s Figueres,we venture to the third stop on the French Food Roadtrip: a small house in the Pyrénées.

What could be better than that – A small house in the mountains? Oh yes, stop 4 on the French Food Roadtrip: Roussillon and the Sea.

After refreshing ourselves at Roussillon and the seaside, now it is time to move on and jump in the mix of French Food Roadtrip 5 – Center of la France!

Once you have a taste of the city, nothing but the best will do. This is where we take the French Food Roadtrip 6 – to Lyon & Grenoble.

This is getting intense people & I think you can feel it. Now that we survived Lyon by protecting ourselves with some of the best local cuisine, wine and beer we venture to French Food Roadtrip 7 – le Buget and Montbéliard in le Jura.

What is Choucroute? Come with us and find out on the French Food Roadtrip 8 – La Maison de la Choucroute in Strasbourg

And finally–though this is not the end–we must finish our French Food Roadtrip 9 – En passant par la Lorraine.

French Food Roadtrip 3 - Small House in the Pyrénées

French Food Roadtrip 3 – Small House in the Pyrénées

See, there is this place in the world I call home. It is a small village lying in the mountains in the French Pyrénées, at the foot of Mount Canigou. Wherever I may roam (yes yes, I know I know) I always long for this place and always end up there at some point or another. I grew up there even if only for the holidays (Easter and summer as a kid and then whenever I felt like going as my parents felt I was responsible enough to have my own set of keys, fools…) So now, as my life is pretty much quasi-nomadic I sort of consider this village my headquarters. Suffice it to say, the food around there is part of the deal.

French Food Roadtrip 3 – Small House in the Pyrénées

The (mostly) French Food Roadtrip 3 - Small House in the Pyrénées

Before the grill…

There is nothing in the village in term of stores, not even the über-ubiquitous bakery. One has to hike one’s way to find food in the nearby villages, in adjacent valleys. And in one of these villages there is… the Butcher, capital b. The man is a character, e un personaggio superiore! His shop is famous all over the area and increasingly farther away as tourists come to know about it, year after year. Around the end of the summer holidays, the line to bring some goods home can become quite impressive. What’s even more impressive is the slowness with which, no matter the length of said line, the man asks, “And what about your grandson, madam Bronchu? How is he doing? Has got himself a nice job, I hear… good good… A little more of sausage maybe? Some liver for the cat?” And if anyone in the line-up manifests any sign of restlessness (usually Parisians, ahah) he smirks and winks at a local while slowly cutting a nice piece of meat and detailing how, in his humble opinion, this particular one should be cooked… A delight. It took us about three quarters of an hour of something closer to street theatre than to trading, to buy our share of charcuterie. It could have taken longer, but I don’t care. I enjoy watching the man and there was no way I wasn’t going to leave with some of his saucisse anyhow.  For this is what he is really famous for: the Catalan sausage, to be grilled on a bundle of sarments (dried vines) with a side of roustes (or ventrèches, sort of grilled lard). Of course we also stocked up on some fouet  (literally the whip, a very dry and very thin sausage, pork of course… almost everything is made out of pork), boutifare (blood pudding, white and red, can be enjoyed cooked, grilled or as cold cuts) and various pâtés (it ranges from rabbit flavoured with Banyuls sweet wine to traditional no-thrill pork or pork with some Armagnac thrown in for good measure).

As it was too late to then return home and cook all that immediately (I’d have to chop some wood to feed the fireplace…) we decided to go to a bistro de village and enjoy some local stuff. There are a number of places all around Rousillon which provide cheap accommodation and food, only from local suppliers. We failed to call in advance so got a bit chastized but the cook still had some estofat on the stove. Saved! Estofat is a special way of cooking a stew very slowly. This one was made precisely with the same sausage and blood pudding from the Butcher. Well, I did tell you it was the place to go. We even managed to taste locally-brewed beers (though we failed to actually visit the brewery as the owner was away delivering his beer to a famous photo festival, it is a one-man operation). The cook also made a starter especially for us: a salad with goat cheese melted on some toasts accompanied with local honey. Fresh and delicious. The estofat was tasty and good-looking, presented with sweet potatoes and purple ones as well. We finished the meal with homemade sorbet, apple and blackberry. All that with a view on Mount Canigou.  A treat.

Of course three days in the village cannot go without having one of the neighbour’s mandatory apéritif that you never know when is going to end and what you are going to eat and/or drink… We showed up with a selection of boutifare, pâté on toasts, local cheeses and Cotes du Roussillon wine (close to Perpignan, roughly) to a nearby house and were welcomed with some southwest wines (close to Toulouse, roughly) and a savoury cake with olives and cheeses (comté and parmeggiano) amongst other things… The evening ended quite a few hours later with a tasting of Bas-Armagnac (also from around Toulouse) and we almost had to crawl back home even if it was served in des verres à goutte. This literally means “glasses for drops” as they are very small and the urban legend goes that if you put a drop of liquor outside of your glass while serving yourself you are too drunk and have to go home. A regular occurrence.

Read the Entire French Food Roadtrip

After a couple of train rides we will arrive at our second stop: Txot Sidreria in Figueras, city of Salvator Dalí for the ones amongst you readership with a fancy for psychedelic painting. To be noted that this rather small Catalan town sports the world famous Dalí museum (yes, the one with the bathroom sculpted on the ceiling of some room, go figure…) However we were there to catch a car ride to the South of France but not before stopping for some new-school tapas and Basque Cider! Basque Country cider in Catalunya, you got to be kidding me!

What could be better than that – A small house in the mountains? Oh yes, stop 4 on the French Food Roadtrip: Roussillon and the Sea.

After refreshing ourselves at Roussillon and the seaside, now it is time to move on and jump in the mix of French Food Roadtrip 5 – Center of la France!

Once you have a taste of the city, nothing but the best will do. This is where we take the French Food Roadtrip 6 – to Lyon & Grenoble.

This is getting intense people & I think you can feel it. Now that we survived Lyon by protecting ourselves with some of the best local cuisine, wine and beer we venture to French Food Roadtrip 7 – le Buget and Montbéliard in le Jura.

What is Choucroute? Come with us and find out on the French Food Roadtrip 8 – La Maison de la Choucroute in Strasbourg

And finally–though this is not the end–we must finish our French Food Roadtrip 9 – En passant par la Lorraine.

French Food Roadtrip 2 - Figueres - Txot Sidreria

French Food Roadtrip 2 – Figueres – Txot Sidreria

French Food Roadtrip 2 - Figueres - Txot Sidreria

Cider self service

So the next stop was on the way to the South of France for some rest… But the ride there caught us in Figueras (or Figueres in Catalan…) and I happened to know a place where it is absolutely necessary to stop. It might not be the most traditional but hey, we’re coming from about 16.000 Km so, seen from there, it’s all the same right? Actually no, it’s not, but amazing food is amazing food and creativity is good, at least in my book.

Here is what Rowena K. has to say about it, while I am enjoying some cider…
“It’s worth it. No doubt. I’d go out of my way even, to track down the saccharine, soggy mess of a teriyaki chicken bowl at the airport food court, force down unidentified airplane mush and overcooked pasta, endure the worst of watery coffee and travel indigestion, to prepare myself for that first meal. The one you know you’re going to have when the 25-hour congested, seemingly endless, anxiety-laden ordeal is over. This time, that first meal would be satisfied by the curative powers of Catalan-style tapas.”

French Food Roadtrip 2 – Figueres – Txot Sidreria

Figueres is both the birthplace of Salvador Dali and home of Txot Sidreria, a cider bar that serves tapas dishes designed to accompany traditional Basque cider. The cider was delicious, drier than the traditional English brew and poured always with a flourish, but make no mistake, I arrived there, bleary-eyed and puffy from too much air travel, to eat.

The cold tapas could sense this, I’m sure. They cheerfully greeted us as we entered the empty restaurant around 8pm, a little too early for the locals, from the artfully lit buffet at the bar. From there, we chose our handsome little bundles of bread topped with layers of soft cheeses, cured meats, pickled anchovies and grilled vegetables.

We followed the cold dishes with moltes cosetes, which included both stewed (in cider, of course) and cured txorico (chorizo), patates braves (fried potatoes in a traditional spicy sauce), and peixet fregit “sonso”, a kind of miniature Mediterranean sand eel lightly floured and fried until they’re golden and crispy and addictive as potato chips.

The stars of the night, though, the remedies that fully woke me from my listless, weary state, were:

(1) Bacalla a la brasa amb ‘pebrotets de Padron’: Codfish braised until pearly white, luxurious and moist, served with the local…

(2) Padron pepper: Eaten in one bite to the stem. Normally quite mild except for, so the tradition goes, the one pepper on the plate that causes an unsuspecting diner to reach, panicking, for a glass of water.

(3) Sipia a la planxa: Cuttlefish grilled so slowly and lightly and perfectly until it strikes that often elusive culinary balance between smokiness and sweetness.  The large-headed beast, despite being toughened up by fire, feels soft and gentle and soothing in your mouth.

Soothing. Comforting. Curative.  I slept soundly and contentedly for the rest of the car ride to our beds that night.  Hours of air travel erased, just like that.

Read the Entire French Food Roadtrip

After dragging ourselves out of the Cider-induced madhouse of Dali’s Figueres,we venture to the third stop on the French Food Roadtrip: a small house in the Pyrénées.

What could be better than that – A small house in the mountains? Oh yes, stop 4 on the French Food Roadtrip: Roussillon and the Sea.

After refreshing ourselves at Roussillon and the seaside, now it is time to move on and jump in the mix of French Food Roadtrip 5 – Center of la France!

Once you have a taste of the city, nothing but the best will do. This is where we take the French Food Roadtrip 6 – to Lyon & Grenoble.

This is getting intense people & I think you can feel it. Now that we survived Lyon by protecting ourselves with some of the best local cuisine, wine and beer we venture to French Food Roadtrip 7 – le Buget and Montbéliard in le Jura.

What is Choucroute? Come with us and find out on the French Food Roadtrip 8 – La Maison de la Choucroute in Strasbourg

And finally–though this is not the end–we must finish our French Food Roadtrip 9 – En passant par la Lorraine.

French Food Roadtrip 1 - Barcelona

French Food Roadtrip 1 – Barcelona

So… long story short, I will bring my friend Rowena K. from Barcelona, Spain to Leuven, Belgium by car. We could drive it in one go, it’s only about 16 hours but that would be a waste of good food and drink opportunities, would it not? Come on! Barcelona, the South of France, the (roughly) centre of France with Lyon, Grenoble, Clermont-Ferrand then Alsace and Lorraine along the way and more… Nothing to say about drinks as we would go through at least half a dozen wine regions. And then Belgium with the highest density of beer breweries per square kilometre and food to go with it. Just writing about it makes my mouth water. I need an aperitif, like, right now!

Writing and tasting duties will be shared by yours truly and Rowena K. Pictures will be taken by yours truly, all digital unfortunately as time and regularity in posting are key. We will try to keep you updated on where we are and more importantly what we had in our plates and glasses very often but it all depends on Internet availability of course. We will be adventuring in remote areas in search of traditional food experience…

Basque Country cider in Catalunya, you got to be kidding me! Click To Tweet

French Food Roadtrip 1 – Barcelona

French Food Roadtrip 1 - Barcelona

Breakfast in Barceloneta, with a beach view.

So let’s start with our first stop: Barcelona, while I was waiting for the other half of the team to show up, plane tickets and reservation being what it is I had some airport time in front of me. Fortunately Estrella is available in all convenient stores at airports and train station. I still had time to go spend the night in town and drink some and eat some as well… nothing fancy. Notably the breakfast included a very very creamy croissant, I’d actually call it cream with croissant much more than croissant with cream. The official cortado (half espresso, half whole milk) accompanied it nicely.

Read the Entire French Food Roadtrip

After a couple of train rides we will arrive at our second stop: Txot Sidreria in Figueras, city of Salvator Dalí for the ones amongst you readership with a fancy for psychedelic painting. To be noted that this rather small Catalan town sports the world famous Dalí museum (yes, the one with the bathroom sculpted on the ceiling of some room, go figure…) However we were there to catch a car ride to the South of France but not before stopping for some new-school tapas and Basque Cider! Basque Country cider in Catalunya, you got to be kidding me!

After dragging ourselves out of the Cider-induced madhouse of Dali’s Figueres,we venture to the third stop on the French Food Roadtrip: a small house in the Pyrénées.

What could be better than that – A small house in the mountains? Oh yes, stop 4 on the French Food Roadtrip: Roussillon and the Sea.

After refreshing ourselves at Roussillon and the seaside, now it is time to move on and jump in the mix of French Food Roadtrip 5 – Center of la France!

Once you have a taste of the city, nothing but the best will do. This is where we take the French Food Roadtrip 6 – to Lyon & Grenoble.

This is getting intense people & I think you can feel it. Now that we survived Lyon by protecting ourselves with some of the best local cuisine, wine and beer we venture to French Food Roadtrip 7 – le Buget and Montbéliard in le Jura.

What is Choucroute? Come with us and find out on the French Food Roadtrip 8 – La Maison de la Choucroute in Strasbourg

And finally–though this is not the end–we must finish our French Food Roadtrip 9 – En passant par la Lorraine.

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