HESO Magazine

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Tag: Craft Beer

Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon

Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon

Salmon season has begun in Alaska, and the King (Chinook), Chum (Keta), Silver (Coho), Pink (Humpy), and Red (Sockeye) are the salmon species most frequently targeted in freshwater and saltwater sport fisheries. Starting in May and June with King Salmon, June and July are good are good times for Reds, while Pinks & Chum have a short season in July and August, Silvers can often peak in September. In Alaska, although salmon returns to streams near the major population center is relatively small, large returns do occur on other more remote areas which are accessible only by boat or by floatplane. Lakes and the mouths of rivers typically provide exceptional angling opportunities for sockeye salmon during June and July and then again for coho during August.

TASTING NOTES: A bold and balanced IPA.
13 INGREDIENTS: Rogue Farms Dare™, Risk™, Maier Munich & Dare™ R-3 Malts; Rogue Farms Liberty, Newport, Revolution, Rebel, Independent, Freedom & Alluvial Hops; Pacman Yeast & Free-Range Coastal Water
Crafted with 7 of the 8 Hops grown at Rogue Farms.
22oz Bottle & 4 Pack / 18° Plato / 7.77% ABV / 76 IBU / 78 AA / 16° L

Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon

Craft Beer - What's On Tap for 2015

Craft Beer – What’s On Tap for 2015

Craft Beer – What’s On Tap for 2015

2014 was a blur of craft beer. It feels as if I was finally awakened to all of life’s infinite malt possibilities, but I know that it’s just the beginning. 2015 promises to be equally exciting and full of new and delicious surprises. The big ABV boys were out at play in the barley fields of the lord. Sierra Nevada, Boston Beer, and New Belgium led the way for the craft beer industry, but limited run ales, as well as multiple hopped IPAs from Lagunitas, Rogue Ales, Brooklyn Brewery, Stone, Dogfish Head, Boulevard, Harpoon, Deschutes sold out regularly throughout the US and the Double IPA saw a large showing as well. Stronger beer seemed to be what was on the menu. But in order to grow beyond the roughly 5% market share they currently possess in the domestic market, smaller craft breweries will have to diversify. It looks like we could be in for a wave of lighter, flavored and session brews running anywhere from a demure 4%- to a slightly less timid 6% ABV. 2015 will be the year of the Wheat Shandy and the Milk Stout. Here’s the rundown of what 2014 tasted like. And cheers to the new year!

Duvel – Blonde Devil

Duvel – Blonde Devil

Duvel Brewery, Belgium

Pale Ale. The name rolls euphoniously off the tongue almost as smoothly as what it describes. The pale varieties of ale have proliferated in recent years, each branching off into seemingly infinite and opposite directions of the basic characteristics of what defines this most popular of brews: Amber, American Pale, Bière de Garde, Blonde, Bitter, Irish Red, India Pale, Strong pale, American Strong, Scotch. Yet despite their differences–and provenances–all of the following share the singularity of the Pale Malt.

Say “malt” five times fast. A bit of a strange word, isn’t it? From Old Norse, similar to melt, malt is kiln-dried barley that has been germinated. Kilning at higher temperatures than lager malt gives pale malt a toastier flavor well suited to pale ales. Unlike some specialty malts, pale requires mashing, the hot water bath process to hydrate the barley, which activates the malt enzymes, and converts the grain starches molecules into fermentable sugars*. Because the yeast need to eat before they excrete ethanol and they like it sweet.

The other important part of the singularity of pale ale is the Saccharomyces Cerevisiae strain of yeast which differentiates the Ale from the Lager. Cerevisiae, as well as being central to the fermentation of wine-making and baking, likes warm temperatures, and is generally, if not anachronistically, called top fermenting, unlike lager yeast, which sinks to the bottom. There is a joke there somewhere, but I’ll leave it for now.

The prototypical pale (although specifically a Belgian Strong Pale) is Duvel. Produced by Duvel Moortgat Brewery, Duvel is not the traditional Belgian brew. The main difference between other Belgian Beer and Duvel is the Moortgat strain of yeast still which stems from a culture of Scottish yeast bought by Albert Moortgat during a business tour of the U.K. just after World War I. And although surrounded by Trappist beer, the Moortgat family has been brewing delicious beer for generations using a simple recipe of pilsner malt and dextrose, and hopping with Noble Saaz and Styrian Goldings, the Slovenian variety of British Fuggle. Yes, hop names come from the characters in Harry Potter.

Duvel – Blonde Devil

Why so pro Duvel? All expenses paid first-class trips to Belgium? Ha! Are they paying me in cases of beer? I wish…but alas I have to buy it just like everyone else. Truthfully it is the seductive combination of the following:

Appearance: Golden Blonde with a clear body and thick white head.
Aroma: Fruit, Straw.
Flavor and Mouthfeel: Lightly but firmly hopped with a fizzy, almost champagne-y touch of dryness on the tongue. Low acid and lack of bitterness lend ease of drinkability fooling the palate into thinking for itself and ordering ahead of schedule.
Alcohol Content: Strong 8.5 ABV with slight aroma of alcohol present in the head.

Beyond the basic Duvel, they also produce the stronger Triple Hop Pale Ale (adding the American Cascade hops to the 2014 version for a special variety of bitter devilry), and recently they licensed the Maredsous Abbey name to produce the dark, rich-bodied Benedictine brew Maredsous Triple, which at 10° ABV, packs a powerful punch yet remains amicably drinkable and overall gives off an old oak-refined finish with a light tinge of fruit, wrapped in a lush summertime breeze of hops, leaving only its smooth creamy head behind. Once you have entered the Maredsous universe (also a Maredsous 6° Blonde and a Maredsous 8° Bruin) there is little else that can grab your attention. Something your toothless uncle would drink on Tuesday mornings because it’s better than Muesli.

The Duvel Moortgat brewery acquired Brewery Ommegang, the US-based Belgian style craft beer kings in 2003 (which brewed a Game of Thrones series of ales last year…I’ll have the Blonde Khalisi please…) and recently they bought a majority stake in one of my favorite American breweries, Boulevard Brewing as well as California Craftbeer King Firestone Walker Brewing. It is nice to know that with AB-InBev assimilating all of the craft breweries they can, there are some brewing companies that will remain as independent and insulated as possible from the growing onslaught of adjunct lagerfication. You know, heat rises, but this little devil, when mixed with the pale malt and any variety of and combination of hops, will take you down to the baddest place around.

*Thanks to John Palmer’s excellent resource How To Brew.

Westmalle Trappist Tripel - 9.5ABV - Brouwerij Westmalle

Trappist Beer – The Divine Brew

Trappist Beer – The Divine Brew

What does it mean: Trappist Beer and why does it start at six dollars a bottle (if you can get it at all)? After a bit of imbibed research and some hard sought questions in a few local European Beer Pubs, I’ve found out some interesting facts about what makes a Trappist Ale so special, and why they’re themselves worth the trip to the countryside Abbeys of Belgium (plus The Netherlands, Austria & yes, the USA). First, onto the monks themselves.

The Order of Cistercians of the Strict Observance (O.C.S.O.: Ordo Cisterciensis Strictioris Observantiae), or Trappists (who get their name from the original La Trappe Abbey, named so for its isolation in a Normandy valley), are a contemplative Roman Catholic religious order, that follows the Rule of St. Benedict, summarized in the motto, ora et labora (“pray and work”). That work tends to be the production of bread, cheese and, some of the best beer the world has ever quaffed.

The rules and regulations of Trappist Beer as set down by the International Trappist Association (ITA) in 1997 state that the beer must be brewed within the walls of a Trappist abbey, by or under control of Trappist monks. The brewery, the choices of brewing, and the commercial orientations must obviously depend on the monastic community. The economic purpose of the brewery must be directed toward assistance and not toward financial profit. And the beer must be kickass.

Trappist Brewery World Map

Trappist Brewery World Map

There are currently 10 International Trappist Association recognized breweries that are allowed to have their products wear the Authentic Trappist Product logo:

  • Brasserie de Rochefort – Belgium – 1595
  • Brouwerij der Trappisten van Westmalle – Belgium – 1836
  • Brouwerij Westvleteren/St Sixtus – Belgium – 1838
  • Bières de Chimay – Belgium – 1863
  • Brasserie d’Orval – Belgium – 1931
  • Brouwerij der Sint-Benedictusabdij de Achelse Kluis (Achel) – Belgium – 1998
  • Brouwerij de Koningshoeven (La Trappe) – Netherlands – 1884
  • Stift Engelszell – Austria – 2012
  • St. Joseph’s Abbey – United States – 2013
  • Brouwerij Abdij Maria Toevlucht – Netherlands – 2014

Why is Trappism so fitting for the brewing of premium beer?

In a word: Quality. Devoted to the Good Work as they are, the monks have long been the key to the survival of the analog ways of classic beer fermentation. The Reinheitsgebot, the Bavarian beer purity law of the 15th century states that beer should only be made with barley, hops and water. The fact that yeast was unknown to the German brewers of the time notwithstanding, it was the peasants of Northwestern Europe (Belgium, France, Netherlands) who began to use distinctly un-beer-like ingredients to add flavor, such as citrus and herbs. to make Saisons and other beer, which remember, dear drinker, was once brewed in open vats, leaving the wind to germinate–and flavor–with whatever happened to fly by and drop in. For the Germans, who developed the bottom-fermenting lagern method of cellaring beer to keep it at a constant temperature (and ipso facto inadvertently gave birth to the modern Budweiser), this method of brewing was messy, undisciplined, unfathomable. So as much as we are dealing with the German certainty that comes with controlled chemical reactions, we are also left to waft in the Gallic wind as the Hand of the Almighty Brewer mixes his nectar for us–by way of the monks who protect his secret recipe–to slip behind the veil if only a wee bit to witness the golden ale light of the divine elixir. Chance or Divine Providence? Depends on your upbringing. Depends on your outlook. But enough flim-flam. On to the drink!

What is a typical Trappist Ale?

Belgian Beer Bubbles!

Belgian Beer Bubbles!

Many of these top-fermented ales are cap numbered (6, 8, 10, etc.) dating from the days before labels, when barrels were marked with one, two or three crosses, generally to denote strength, which translated into three simple categories: Enkel, Dubbel, Tripel. While the Enkel is not really brewed much anymore, some breweries offer more sessionable varieties of the stronger versions on tap at the brewpub. If you have never been to one of these abbeys, then all you may know of the Cistercian brewery is the Dubbel and the Tripel.


The origin of the dubbel bubbled forth from Westmalle in 1856. Hence Westmalle Dubbel is the benchmark and has been imitated by many other breweries worldwide, leading to the emergence of the Dubbel as a distinct style. Apart from the classic Westmalle, the Chimay Red, La Trappe Dubbel, Ommegang and New Belgium‘s Abbey Ale are delicious examples of a strong, dark dubbel.

Dubbels are a strong, dark ale (brown color comes from dark malts) with full flavor flavor and a robust body. And while not as overtly aromatic as one would first notice after pouring the molasses-hued ale into a snifter-like glass with a wide lip and taking the initial sip, swishing the more complex, caramel-textured flavors about one’s mouth, encountering an unexpected dry cereal crispness and fruity complexity, one’s interest is more than piqued. You long for a day reserved for solely for drinking down these dark candy sugared Dubbels while picnicking on apples and grapes and cheese and freshly baked bread in the pastoral sun of a Belgian lea surrounded by wildflowers and bubbly Belgique Belles Femmescooing haughtily into your warm ears. Pour another one sir, for though these bottle-fermented ales are slightly heavy, they go down smoother than panties on well-lotioned thighs.


Tripels - So Many Choices

Trappist Beer Tripels – So Many Choices

There you are again, perusing the bottled multitudes at the the high-end organic co-op your wife props up with your paycheck. You’re eyeing a sixer of good microbrew to see you through yet another holiday party. You move to the last shelf and see the individual bottles and Flash! An Epiphany. Chimay Cinq Cents. You see the maple colored bottle and its straw label modestly boasting its diminutive “Tripel”. Triple what? Taste? Creamy Golden-ness? Despite the pale, straw colored ale, triple the strength. Not overly, but perfectly, hopped (Surprisingly, the monks use the American-grown Nugget hop), on opening (or decorking if you’ve got the 75cl bottle) an evanescent aroma reminiscent of a fresh harvest of hops just after a rainstorm issues forth. Send the relatives home, grab your glass and get thee to a comfortable chair. This strong pale brew, evanescent of fruity esters with just a touch of ephemeral bitterness washed away so quickly another sip is quite in order, deserves an audience. It needs a deep rich mahogany coffee table and a warm fire, and a finely-sweatered Northern European female by your side. Swirl. Take another sip. Swirl again. Then one more. Maybe that’s what the “Tripel” stands for. All sips come in threes. Though slow down, cowboy. This is made by monks. Trappist monks. Think Sloths. Slow but strong. They cruise relaxedly chuckling away to God while beer bubbles foam away on upper lips, these giddy brewmeisters, high on hops, fermented to high heaven, they take their time. As should you, mon frere. Letting the creamy head mellow and the rich amber settle, take another whiff and let the aromas pour over your skin, feel the soft bite of apples, sniff again and quickly now, take a deep drink, getting the head all over you as the color of caramelized happy liquid floats so smoothly down your throat. The strong crisp taste of raisins lingers so luxuriously on your tongue, on second (or third) thought, taking another sip too quickly is not recommended. Let it rest. Happy Holidays.

Achel Blonde 8° ABV

Achel Blonde 8° ABV

It is said that he first golden tripel was produced by the Three Lindens brewery, post-war, when, as famed Beer Hunter Michael Jackson says, “brewers of strong, top-fermenting beers were trying to compete with Pilsener-style lagers. When the Three Linden brewery closed, its product, under the name Witkap, was taken over by the Slaghmuylder brewery, at Ninove, west of Brussels.”

Yet it was, once again the Westmalle version that is considered to be the foundation of this beer style as well. Though striking from the label to the glass bin, Achel Blonde proves that those who drink Blondes do have more fun. I am having more fun than before I opened the bottle. One could only imagine what would ensue if this weren’t merely a bottle containing a beautifully crafted tripel brewed by an order of Belgian monks who’ve been chased out of their abbey time and again (first by the French revolution and then the nazis). The smallest of the Trappist breweries, the Achel freres began brewing again in 1998 and seemingly have never looked back. The proof is in the pour. Patience is the key word here, because it takes what must be referred to as a Belgian Minute in the Trappist lingua franca for the thick, creamy head to dissipate. Notable non-Trappist Tripels include Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet 8.4% ABV, Unibroue La Fin du Monde 9.0% ABV, St. Bernardus Tripel 8.0% ABV, Gouden Carolus Tripel 9.0% ABV, St Feuillien Triple 8.5% ABV, Ommegang Tripel Perfection 8.9% ABV, Boulevard Smokestack Series – Long Strange Tripel 9.2% ABV.

Like many of the Trappist (and non-Trappist) breweries of North-Western Europe, there are varieties offered solely within the confines of the brewery itself. Achel offers the lower ABV Blonde 5% and Brune 5% only on tap (and how delicious that must be–“Friar Tuck, pour me another!”), while the Achel Extra, 9.5% ABV Blonde is only available in the 75 cl bottle. The incentive being to get thee to the chapel.


Chimay Blue, 9% abv Belgian Strong Dark Ale, also known as Grande Réserve.

Chimay Blue, 9% abv Belgian Strong Dark Ale, also known as Grande Réserve.

While the overall style of Trappist brewing is one of strict observance of style and discipline within a world dominated by “beer” brewed with whatever ingredient (soy and corn) happens to most cheaply prevalent, there are a few breweries who don’t strictly follow the traditional enkel, dubbel, tripel format. That’s where the Quad comes in. Quadrupel is a new style loosely based on strong dark ales, well-spiced with notes of citrus and pepper and an ABV over 10%. Just over the Belgian border in the southern part of the Netherlands is the De Koningshoeven Brewery, best known as La Trappe, the most commercial of the Trappist breweries. They produce a Blond (6.5% ABV), a Dubbel (7% ABV), Tripel (8% ABV), a Witte (5.5% ABV), a seasonal Bockbier (7% ABV), and an organic brew named PUUR (4.7% ABV). The brewery also has become known for its La Trappe Quadrupel (10% ABV), following suit in terms of gradually stronger ABV than the dubbel or tripel, while retaining its overall drinkability, despite a boozy tinge of flatness that sets in about halfway point, a slight downer in an generally good drinking experience that could be eliminated with age.

It has been said that The Best Beer In The World is made at the Westvleteren Brewery in West Flanders, and is sold exclusively to individuals (who must promise before god not to resell) at the abbey store, who have called in advance. You probably have to do some push-ups as well. The Trappist Westvleteren 12 (Strong Belgian Dark Ale, 10.2° ABV), sells for 40 Euros per 24 bottles (plus 12 Euro bottle deposit). Quite a deal for locals, but tough for American Beer Enthusiasts to get a glass. The last of the major breweries to hold out to international distribution, the monks of St Sixtus also deem it perfectly acceptable to bottle their brews without labels. That must be some brew if they don’t feel the need to label it nor let most of the outside world purchase it. It goes back to a post-war accommodation between a local brewer who produced a similar yet noticeably different brew for distribution until the early 90s. When the deal ended so did Westvleteren desire to expand. When I went to Brugge several years ago, I was too young to drink anything but Stella Artois. I have not yet been back, but in one of his reviews, Michael Jackson says, “Beers of ‘triple’ strength are said to have been especially associated with the city of Bruges.” Good enough reason to book a return trip.

Moving east through the Ardennes toward Luxembourg it is beer-growing country. Take the locally plentiful crops of barley, hops and wheat, add the monks of Abbey Our Lady of St Rémy and you get the heady brews of Rochefort. Upon opening a lanky brown bottle of Rochefort 10 (blue cap, 11.3% ABV), a dark and immediate bouquet grabs one’s olfactory senses and takes one back to the days of Saint Rémy. Before then even, the Abbey was founded in 1230, and the monks began to brew beer sometime around 1595. Survivors of local invasions, greedy plunderers, monastic and social revolutions–and yes, the nazis–the motto Curvata Resurgo (Curved, I straighten up), which illustrate the three theological virtues: the palm tree (faith), the star (hope), and the rose (charity), does well to demonstrate the resolve of these Trappists in their dedication to beer brewing as the lord’s calling. But don’t go expecting to have a revelatory experience at the tap, because they only bottle to go.

The more pagan aspects of my mind imagines skinny dipping with sirens in vast natural hot springs of strong malt surrounded by oak-boasting mistletoe with wild almonds growing poolside and you have an inkling of how smoothly the 11.3% alcohol volume slides you into a medieval reverie. There you are cavorting like a drunken cherub in the smooth leather-colored waters when you get the urge to dive, to sink down deep into beery abyss and chase the roots of malted hop eddies unseen. You drain your glass and the silt of more than 400 years of utopian brewing ideals sinks into your tongue, penetrating deeper than mere mortal taste buds allow.

Spencer Trappist Ale - Cheers to the Future

Spencer Trappist Ale – Cheers to the Future

Of the Trappist breweries, the monks of the Abbaye Notre-Dame d’Orval are perhaps the most independent, producing only two beers: Orval and Petite Orval (a light 3.2% ABV brew mostly for their own consumption). So they make one beer, fermented with Brettanomyces lambicus, which produces the yeasty and spicily aromatic Orval Belgian Pale Ale, 6.2% ABV. The bottle, though nicely shaped, is uneventful considering its boastful Trappist brethren. But then Orval is not the average Trappist beer, if indeed there could be one described as “average”. It has a smoother, more refined, decidedly English air about its orange caramel body, easily observed as early as the pour. This beer is not malt heavy, though does contain pale barley malt. Rather Orval depends more on two stages of hops: an initial dry-hopping as well as the various Hallertau, Styrian Goldings and French Strisselspalt hops. The first taste, a tinge on the bitter side, rather leathery and unfruity, seems overly yeasty and a bit disappointing. Midway through the beer, still nonplussed, I begin to picture the hard-working monks in their habits and their haircuts, toiling away all these hundreds of years. I consider the fact that there are a mere ten Trappist breweries worldwide and that Orval is exported to the four corners of the globe. Maybe it’s just a bad bottle…? As I ponder not so much why I dislike Orval as opposed to why it’s merely not up to par with its Trappist roots, something happens. The beer shifts and the heretofore untasted bounty of flavors begins to show its Belgian blood. Compelled to continue to the last hop-rich gulp, the last few sips are reminiscent of a crescendo, and a strange buzzing of sorts, an aria if you will, arises upon draining the glass, dissipating only as the eager candy-colored liquid works it way molasses-like down my throat. Orval is an opera. It needs to develop and can stand up well to cellaring. Give it the temperament it deserves.

Having yet the honor to taste anything brewed in Austria’s Stift Engelszell, Massachusett’s St. Joseph’s Abbey, or the Dutch Brouwerij Abdij Maria Toevlucht, no comment will be made here as to the quality of their brew, save for one: Should it be prophesied that these strong ales are destined for a chance in a chalice to dance across my lips, to alight upon the taste buds of my tongue and down into the darkened regions of my belly to enlighten my body and mind to their delicate and divine mysteries, I would be a willing initiate.

Pauwel Kwak Amber Ale

Pauwel Kwak Amber Ale

Pauwel Kwak Amber Ale 8.4ABV from Brouwerij Bosteels

Pauwel Kwak Amber Ale 8.4ABV from Brouwerij Bosteels © Adrian Storey

In the ever expanding brewhead of HESO Magazine’s Beer of the Year of the Beer, we present (as if you didn’t already know and weren’t already awkwardly tilting one back) Pauwel Kwak, or just Kwak to his friends.

Named after an apocryphal 18th-century innkeeper and brewer, Pauwel Kwak, Kwak is an amber ale that is served in a particularly distinctive branded glass–basically a scientist’s lab beaker, stood upright in a wooden stand for easy to grab-and-drink-ness.

Brouwerij Bosteels is a brewery founded in 1791 in Buggenhout, Belgium, which brews three beers: Tripel Karmeliet, DeuS, and Pauwel Kwak, here served in its traditional glass. The brewery claims the glass was designed by Kwak the innkeeper for coachmen who would stop at his coaching tavern and brewery named “De Hoorn”, but weren’t allowed to go in for a drink. The wooden stand stabilized the horsemen’s ability to drink and drive a team of horses on potholed old European dirt roads. Somewhere along the dusty road of history it fell from the carriage of man’s achievements and was forgotten. Until roughly 1980, when it was rediscovered and brought back into the fold of history’s favored children’s favorite beer-drinking devices. It’s carnival-esque for sure, but as far as Amber Ales go, Kwak is one of the best.

The typical Belgian ale is a heady brew with an initial appearance that can foam up a puffy white head quickly upon opening and should solidify into a good inch or two of good mouthfeel as the deep amber colored ale issues forth. Many Belgian brews are spiced, coriander being a favorite herb and Kwak has a strong malty, sweet aroma. With both a hoppy and fruity spice to its medium body, the carmely taste doesn’t overpower, but fades nicely, if a bit dryly, replaced with nothing overly bitter, as Orval tends to do. The drinkability is overwhelmingly positive, but at 8.4abv, wouldn’t suggest more than one 75 cl bottle, even if you need something to help swallow the whole Kwak story.

French Food Roadtrip 5: Center of France!

French Food Roadtrip 5: Center of France!

Going from the deep south of France all the way to Belgium is no joke. Maybe for people living in the USA or in Canada driving 1300km is of no consequence and they would do it to visit Aunt Gudrun over the weekend. Not so in Europe where the same distance can have you cross five countries, probably more if you target properly and aim at maximizing border-crossing (some people do it as a sport almost!) Our first day of travelling had us reach la Lozère almost right in the middle of France, in Le Massif Central, a volcanic mountain range providing pretty amazing landscape but also pretty rough living conditions therefore quite devoid of human presence. It is a part of the French hippie myth to quit one’s job, buy a farm there and go make goat cheese. Some did.

Marinated bell pepper with anchovies @ Le Caylar (photo by Rowena Koh)

Marinated bell pepper with anchovies @ Le Caylar (photo by Rowena Koh)

Our next pit stop was for the evening but we had to stop for lunch, it happened whenever we started to feel a bit hungry and when a little town showed a name that I fancied, Le Caylar won the prize that day. It was a tiny village with stone built houses and a central plaza with big old trees (I do not remember but most probably a walnut tree or a lime tree…) The inn was run by a family and the food was as delicious as the place was cosy. Beware though not to start making a fuss because the cheese smells too harsh or because this or that as the owner is prompt to kick you out if you disturb “the ambiance.” It nearly happened. Not because of us: we were too busy enjoying sausage and lentils, bell pepper marinated with anchovies, local pâté de campagne and the über-ubiquitous plateau de fromages

Then we drove some more…

French Food Roadtrip 5: Center of France!

Indeed we had to reach Chirac (Lozère) where I had made a booking in a “ferme auberge.” The concept is quite simple: some people have a nice big farm, some still farm or breed (animals, hu?), and have a couple of rooms for rent. One is welcome there and takes meals at the hosts’ table. You never know exactly what you’ll eat except that it will be local (sometimes as local as directly from the farm) and that you may meet some rather interesting characters (hosts or guests.) I thought the place was in Chirac, a little village I always wanted to explore just because it has the same name as a certain French Président de la République, it is always funny to send your family or friends a text message saying you’re having a beer at Chirac’s (the joke works better in French, yes, but you get the idea). After about 15min driving on smaller and smaller roads I had to come to terms with that, we would not be exactly in Chirac, rather somewhere remote higher in the hills, surrounded by forests (mostly pines, firs and oaks if you want to know…) and sheep.

The farm was a nice old building (or buildings, rather) and the hosts pretty colourful and very warm. It would be tedious to describe the whole meal so I’ll let the pictures speak…

  • Apéritif of white wine mixed with Aubrac tea syrup,
  • a starter of meat pie (with some dry sausage on the side as the lady of the house feared we would be still hungry! Insanity…),
  • main dish of paleron and truffade (paleron is beef, somewhere in the shoulder as far as they told me… truffade is a sort of tartiflette, ah ah, now you know better don’t you? So, potatoes, crême fraiche, onions maybe and local cheese melted on top, cooked in a big pan… the best part is the crusty bits at the bottom, I had to fight with the host to get some, it is well sought after…),
  • of course plateau de fromages
  • and a dessert of homemade currant pie.

We could barely move to get to our room. The night went by very fast, sheltered in a room with meter-wide walls and very little noise and other distraction. In the morning, after breakfast, I went to try and see the sheep and the donkey. They have donkeys because they are good guards against wolves!

So yes, I wanted to see the famous loups du Gévaudan in Marvejols (Lozère) and, even if it is not really part of a food roadtrip to describe such things I have to say I was pretty impressed by these animals. If one wants to spend more time there one can rent a house close by the park in Sainte Lucie and try to sleep with the sound of them howling in the night. We spent about 2 hours in the park where about 5 different species of wolves are kept. Do not get me started on the French politics of conservation of wild animals such as wolves and bears and all that. We pretty much killed them all and every try to put some animals back in the wilderness is met with, let’s say resistance. Sigh.

However, we still had land to cover to reach our destination of the night: La Pointezie, a hamlet lost in the middle of nowhere, to meet with an old friend of mine. Lunch was uneventful in Saint-Flour (Cantal) with some nice trippoux and aligot (some sort of a large sausage made out of pig guts served with mashed potatoes mixed with melted local cheese, a delicacy from the area of course… some say that a real aligot has to be served with a fork and a pair of scissors to cut the melted cheese strings attaching the dish to the plate) and a sample of local beers. As a side note I was pleasantly surprised to see (and taste) more and more micro brews (bières artisanales) in France, and not only in the North close by Belgium and Germany but also in the South and Middle of the country…

We reached La Pointézie (do not try to find it on a map, useless…) just in time to go pick some green and yellow beans for the meal of the evening… My friend Laurent and his wife and daughter live with chickens and rabbits, some vagrant cats and Eole the dog. They help local farmers with their cows from time to time, they have a real bread wood oven in a small shed somewhere in the garden, the garden has everything you need: salad, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, beans, zucchini, eggplant, you name it… In short they have all the good stuff around. Granted, the place is fairly remote and during winter they could be isolated because of snow and bad weather but that is the price to pay to have fresh eggs, fresh milk directly from the cow (the farmer drops by on his way to milk them to get some containers and put said-containers full by the mail box on his way back… I recall some Xmas ago during my last visit giving hay to these very cows (or maybe their cousins.) That evening we had delicious oeufs cocotte (eggs cooked in a bain-marie in the oven with milk and cheese in little glass dishes) with potato and bean salad, whole wheat bread and, guess what, a nice piece of cheese… My friend even opened a bottle of Cahors 2002! He doesn’t drink wine himself but this is part of the French way of welcoming people, long time friends and possibly lost travelers. Well, not everywhere but hey, you choose your friends, right?

Read the Entire French Food Roadtrip

After a couple of train rides we will arrive at our second stop: Txot’s Sidreria in Figueras, city of Salvator Dalí for the ones amongst you readership with a fancy for psychedelic painting. To be noted that this rather small Catalan town sports the world famous Dalí museum (yes, the one with the bathroom sculpted on the ceiling of some room, go figure…) However we were there to catch a car ride to the South of France but not before stopping for some new-school tapas and Basque Cider! Basque Country cider in Catalunya, you got to be kidding me!

After dragging ourselves out of the Cider-induced madhouse of Dali’s Figueres,we venture to the third stop on the French Food Roadtrip: a small house in the Pyrénées.

What could be better than that – A small house in the mountains? Oh yes, stop 4 on the French Food Roadtrip: Roussillon and the Sea.

Once you have a taste of the city, nothing but the best will do. This is where we take the French Food Roadtrip 6: to Lyon & Grenoble.

This is getting intense people & I think you can feel it. Now that we survived Lyon by protecting ourselves with some of the best local cuisine, wine and beer we venture to French food roadtrip – stop 7: le Buget and Montbéliard in le Jura.

What is Choucroute? Come with us and find out on the French Food Roadtrip – stop 8: la Maison de la Choucroute in Strasbourg.

And finally–though this is not the end–we must finish our Mostly French Food Roadtrip with the last stop 9: En passant par la Lorraine.

World Beer 2011 Magic is the key Ingredient in Beer

Craft Beer – Magic Key Ingredient in Beer

Beer is water, barley, hops and yeast. More or less this is the recipe for the most popular alcoholic drink-and third overall-the world has ever known. There are many variations on this recipe, which, much like the variations in people, give rise to the differing characteristics that make the world such a diverse and awe-inspiring place (to drink). Yet, while some may consider these variations themselves to be of the utmost importance (what separates common Pilsner style American pale lagers from Trappist monk-crafted dark Belgian ales just as we used to segregate types of people), the basic ingredients are almost always the same. But what isn’t on your list of ingredients, what won’t show up on any menus, the thing that has given the drink of beer the power to allure literally billions of people over thousand of years is unquantifiable, because simply put, it’s magic.

The most logical of minds among you might automatically leap to the question that is begged: what about the alcohol?

Commensurate with that reasonable assumption, which is objectively true, is that among other things, alcohol is the main by-product of yeast, those eukaryotic, unicellular micro-organisms which under specific anaerobic conditions convert sugar into ethanol. Barley (or some other grain) is soaked in water and subsequently malted, allowing the enzyme amylase prevalent in barley to convert starches in the grain into fermentable sugars. Add hops for flavor and preservation. Cool and allow yeast to begin feeding on sugar. Depending on the variety of yeast, the time and temperature at which it is stored (ales shorter, lagers longer), the by-product-or waste product-ethanol, is created.

To be blunt alcohol is the afterthought of a corpuscle of pure action, as hellbent on survival as any other living thing, and as much in the dark as to the why of it, if that matters anyway. Yet this embryo, which can do more than anything you or I have ever accomplished by just excreting waste, which metabolizes carbohydrates under low-oxygen conditions into alcohol, is magic. Ask any scientist the question, “Where does the alcohol come from?” and they might try to give you some bio-technical mumbo-jumbo about zymurgy, they may be able to observe the process, but they cannot explain how a single-celled microbe just happens to poop out the magic of ethanol. Louis Pasteur concluded that fermentation was catalyzed by a “vital force”, but couldn’t say how yeast extracts ferment sugar even in the absence of living yeast cells, i.e. when they are dead. How do dead yeast cells still manage to excrete alcohol while all you do is stink up the bathroom?


Craft Beer – Magic Key Ingredient in Beer

In its most generic, idea form, it is a suggestion of merrier times past and what may come. At its most practical, it is a 7000 year-old blue-collar drink shared at a common table where daily travails are swapped amongst world-weary workers who smile despite myriad other pressures. For regardless of race or nationality, beer is the present tense, the guts, belly and lungs-the sex. Beer is magic. And the magic is served everywhere.

From Japan to China, southeast Asia and up through Mongolia and central Asia there are generic pale lagers being produced today which were introduced a century ago by seafaring Dutch or bureaucratic Russians that are no worse than any American style adjunct lager like Coors or Budweiser. In fact, many are much better. Yebisu, along with the budding craft beer industry in Japan, are shining Japanese stars. Basketball giant Yao Ming has a Yanjing brewed lager that is much tastier than than bear liver juice and snake blood.

Not to be outdone in anything alcoholic the Mongolians have the respectable Chinggis Beer, which like the shaky-handed Thai-brewed version of Tiger beer, has an alternating alcohol content (abv) of two to nine percent. Lucky Mongols!

Moving through Mongolia and Russia is like swimming through an unending, and surprisingly refreshing spring of Vodka. Though occasionally even the Russians like a bracing malted beverage. Exit the Soviet era. Enter Baltika. Saint Petersburg-based brewer of strong lagers and dark wheats with the higher alcohol content required in Russia. Kvass, the low-alcohol and lacto-fermented beverage akin to kombucha, deserves a mention due to when yeast are not producing deliciously intoxicating doo-doo, they make a strong argument for consumption of fermented drinks, possessed as they are of immense health benefits.

Sailing down the Baltic Sea through Estonia and emerging into the western world of Europe from central Asia and Russia, you might find yourself face to face with many complex and tasty Baltic porters and the heady realization of the full influence of the Czech pilsner begins to rear its golden Bohemian lionshead. While many might say that the Germans’ influence in the beer world is larger (lager is derived from the German for “storage”), I would argue that the Czech brewing tradition (Budweiser, Pilsner Urquell, highest per capita consumption rate) is second only to Belgian beer, though the U.S. craft beer revolution brewing since the late 80s is making a case for malted American beverages.

Which touches on a particularly sensitive subject: the reputation of American beer abroad.

While living abroad I have found myself fending off generalizing put-downs to American beer based mostly upon notoriously weak pale lagers produced by Anheuser-Busch and MillerCoors almost as much as rants about overly aggressive foreign policy. I suppose it follows that all Americans should shoulder the blame for everything American. The truth is most countries (except Belgium and to a lesser extent the Czech Republic and Germany, it seems) produce or sell an adjunct lager. Meaning a beverage whose malt content is adjuncted with corn, rice, sorghum or soy in order to cut cost. The American versions are just the most popular. I generally argue that all beer (or beer-like beverages) have a proper context in which they can be enjoyed, including Budweiser. These hypothetical contexts generally center on post-connubial relations with unnamed faux-blondes where consumption of large quantities of mass-produced pizza products are necessary to get the taste of vomit out of the mouth. Not that I would know.

The Lowlife at the Liquid Kitty in Venice: Pabst BlueRibbon & shot of whiskey | American Adjunct Lager |  4.74% ABV (Manny Santiago)

The Lowlife at the Liquid Kitty in Venice: Pabst BlueRibbon & shot of whiskey | American Adjunct Lager | 4.74% ABV

Moving along, there are five accepted characteristics used to evaluate beer: Appearance, Aroma, Flavor, Texture, Drinkability aka Look, Smell, Taste, Mouthfeel & Drink. Take the average American beer, say the Pabst Blue Ribbon, a 4.7% American Adjunct Lager, described by Beeradvocate as:

Light bodied, pale, fizzy lagers made popular by the large macro-breweries of America after prohibition. Low bitterness, thin malts, and moderate alcohol. Focus is less on flavor and more on mass-production and consumption, cutting flavor and sometimes costs with adjunct cereal grains, like rice and corn.

Look: Pale, golden color, light head, fizzy

Smell: Overwhelming sweet corn syrupy

Taste: Overwhelming sweet, corn syrupy

Feel: Like swishing around carbonated water

Drink: When served very cold surprisingly refreshing, palate cleansing even.

Overall: Good for washing down typical American-style pizza, barbecue and junk food. Like happoshu in Japan. Good for the post-prohibition age for which it was designed. Surprising clout in the hipster community.

That is of course the average, not much better than a C- in most modern beer drinkers’ books. Not just the drink itself but the paradigm within which we imbibe too must be examined in order to properly understand the magic of beer. The way people drink beer now is different from how it was before the the industrial revolution brought in the assembly line to dilute our fair brews. Prior to this, beer was originally meant to replace supplies of water that had become undrinkable, specifically in Belgium, where they called the local farmer’s brew Saison. Farmhands were allowed five liters a day during the “season” and were were meant to be refreshing rather than intoxicating and thus had alcohol levels less than 3%. Brasserie Dupont says, “Because of the lack of potable water, saisons would give the farm hands the hydration they needed without the threat of illness.”

Traditionally these seasonals were brewed in the winter for use the following summer. To keep alcohol content low and worker production up, they were occasionally blended with their Lambic cousins, themselves left to spontaneously ferment outside between April and May by catching the wild yeasts floating about on spring breezes. One of the most important of which turned out to Brettanomyces bruxellensis (identified in 1904 by Carlsberg brewers as the cause of British Ale spoilage, naming it Belgian British Fungus). A wild strain that has since been domesticated, it lives on the skins of fruit, and imparts the typically dry, fruity flavors found in Lambic. Despite its generally favorable reception, its flavor has also been described as “sweaty saddle leather”, “barnyard”, “burnt plastic” or even “band-aid” and is figured to cause 90% of wine spoilage, although apparently French winemakers are noted for not particularly minding the flavor. This embattled strain of wild yeast has been used in the genesis of brewing of many American Saison-style brews, such as Saison Brett, the Kansas City-based Boulevard Brewing’s Saison / Farmhouse Ale. The jacket reads:

Our gold medal winning Saison (Mondial de la Biere, Montreal, 2008) was the starting point for this limited edition ale. It was then dry-hopped, followed by bottle conditioning with various yeasts, including Brettanomyces, a wild strain that imparts a distinctive earthy quality. Though this farmhouse ale was given three months of bottle age prior to release, further cellaring will continue to enhance the ‘Brett’ character, if that’s what you’re after.

As most beer drinkers, I am no apologist for my homeland’s failed foreign policies nor corn-flavored lagers. yet given the choice between having my choice of high end Belgium Trappist Ales and tabling a few brews amongst friends at the local pub, I choose the table, the talk, the the sweaty saddle leather, the barnyard generic golden pils-style pale lager invented in earnest and mass-produced to death. Because amongst friends, even in mass-produced, corn-syrupy dilution, the magic is there. Perhaps that is just the ‘Brett’ character, but I choose the magic.

Boulevard Brewing | Saison / Farmhouse Ale | 8.50% ABV (Manny Santiago)

Boulevard Brewing | Saison / Farmhouse Ale | 8.50% ABV

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